Friday, January 6, 2017

Thingiverse Reviews: #1115785 Nintendo Gameboy DMG Backdoor Replacement Part 1

Welcome to another installment of Thingiverse Reviews! This time, we are looking at a common problem and the power of 3D printing to fix it: the plastic consumer battery door from a friend's Nintendo Gameboy has gone missing.



I suppose Tetris is quite an enduring classic!


Let's 3D print a new battery door cover, using the Thingiverse model Nintendo Gameboy DMG Backdoor replacement 100% by SylverZerom (Chris Guen)! This first post will focus on the Slic3r setup.


Here is the STL file, uploaded into Slic3r.


Let's check out the settings for each part of the print process:


Now we have the "Layers and perimeters" options. 0.2 mm is a very reasonable height for each layer - it combines speed and overall quality. I run the first layer a little more than half height (0.12 mm) just to make the nozzle get closer to the bed and really squish the plastic into the bed. The first layer is certainly the most important in 3D printing.

Three perimeters is a pretty standard number for vertical shells (referring to the "walls" of the part). Three layers on the top and bottom is a good number for thispart simply because the battery cover is bearing a load.


Next, let's talk infill patterns. Honeycomb infill is one of the strongest infill patterns for mechanical/load-bearing parts, so I will use it for this part. Rectilinear fill is best for cohesiveness on the faces of the parts. "60%" is the magic number for this print - a 60% fill density of PLA will allow the part to be strong, but it will also allow the part to bend without snapping. This flexibility is crucial when removing the battery door so the user doesn't snap it off.


Lastly, the bed (PLA with blue tape) is heated to 30 degrees C, and the extruder is heated to 185 degrees C during the print. These are relatively standard values for PLA printing.


Next week - onward to the print!